![]() ![]() I thought when the engine was upside down and i tried to install the driveshaft it would just fall out, but i guess i just have no idea here.Īnd since it looks like i'll be taking the pan off again, my haynes manual says install the end seals first, then lay the cork side gaskets over them.Ī link on another thread to a mustang monthly magazine build showed those guys laid the cork side gaskets down first and then the rubber end seals over the top of the side gaskets? which way is really right? I installed the end seals first, then the side gaskets, and i noticed the thin edges that lay down on the block at the end of the rubber end seals were squishing out away from the block. (and why doesnt the haynes manual not mention any info about this driveshaft anywhere ! :evil: ![]() i've already sealed up the oil pan, and im wondering if its possible to install the driveshaft now?Īlso, what is the clip for on the driveshaft? Just because the factory "didn't do it" doesn't mean it's a bad idea.I'm having a problem installing the oil pump driveshaft. With no sealer, oil will migrate up the bolt threads from crankcase pressure and puddle on the intake manifold next to the bolt heads and have you wondering where it's coming from. You also need to coat the intake bolt threads with "some sort" of sealer (again, I use RTV), because the intake bolt holes go through to the under valve cover area of the head. It's not possible for the intake gaskets to do that both by how they are made, and the fact they have bolts running through them to hold them in place. I mean really, you want it to not leak the first time, right? A lot of times I agree with no sealer, because in some instances, the sealer will act as a lubricant and make the gasket "squirm" out from under what it's sealing, when you torque the part down. I don't care what the instructions say, I always put a light coat of sealer (I use RTV) around the water ports on each side of the gaskets. ![]()
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